I've started putting together a 28mm army of 10th-11th century Saxons, using Peter Dennis's Paperboys download-print-and-snip paper flats.
I print them on Brother 143gsm matte paper, so when they're folded and glued they're fairly sturdy — as long as I'm not too ham-fisted with them.
Here's the first batch of huscarls, mounted on 3mm grey-board covered with a vaguely grassy patterned paper, also from Paperboys.
I didn't notice that I had the Save Ink/Toner checkbox in the Acrobat print dialogue checked, so the colours are all a bit washed out. But now I know about that.
I run around the edges of the cut-out figures with a sepia felt pen, to remove the glare of the cut edges. Then I use superglue gel to tack the figures in place on the base, and then go back with PVA to create an encapsulating boot around the feet for strength and durability.
I have two sets of Paperboys Saxons — one (on the left in this photo) is from their 1066 book, and the figures are printed in shoulder-to-shoulder groups for big-battle wargaming. The other set is intended for skirmish games, and each figure is printed and mounted individually.
The 1066 base is much more densely populated: with three ranks, there are twelve figures on the base, whereas on the other there is only six. I could bunch up the individual figures more if need be, and I'll probably try that for the front rank of a shield-wall base.
Of the two types, I find that I prefer the look of individual figures when mounted on their bases.
I'm currently putting together some units of the Great Fyrd as well, and there will be some light troops as well — slingers, archers, and javelinmen — as well as some mounted troops who, for Saxons, would probably be mounted infantry rather than cavalry.
They look pretty good on the tabletop from the front or back, or in oblique up to about 40-60 degrees. They disappear from directly side on of course, but that's not too big an issue most of the time.
Because they're so cheap and quick to prepare, these paper soldiers would be ideal for trying out new periods or genres of wargaming, or even as an end unto themselves. I'm quite enjoying them.
Later on...
I've given my Anglo-Saxon fyrd some moral support in the form of a holy banner and a bunch of monks, which I'm sure will be of great comfort to them when the Vikings come rampaging over the hill.
Also, I experimented with giving one of the bases — front right — a couple of coats of spray satin varnish.
It doesn't show up as much in the photograph as in real life, but it seems to have darkened the ink a bit, while at the same time giving it a bit of a milky film that lowers contrast.
I doubt that I'll do it again.
Later on (again)
Now I'm having a go at making some shield-wall stands, this time using the Paperboys Viking skirmish set.
There's a single close-set rank of four figures in front, and then a few more loosely scattered figures in behind them just to give the crowd a bit of volume.
There is a little bit more work involved in using individual figures rather than the base-wide groups in the 1066 set, but it's not really much more arduous, and I do prefer the look of them.
One good thing about Vikings is that they're really very similar visually to the Saxons, so at a pinch I could use them all together. The raven banner might be a bit of a giveaway though.
Something else new with this lot: instead of glueing the grassy basing paper around the edges of the grey-card base, I've just painted the edges green and sponged them to mottle them. It's a lot faster and easier than the other method, with the additional benefit that I can get a lot more bases out of a single printed sheet of basing paper, since I don't have to allow for any overlap.
Later on (again again)
Using 40x40mm bases is pretty flexible on the wargames table, but moving a whole bunch of individual stands about as units gets tired pretty fast.
So I've made some movement trays to accommodate 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 stands, to be 3d printed. The 6-stand tray is 120 x 80 mm, so 6 stands in 2 ranks. I can't fit a tray 6 stands wide on my printer platen.
The STLs are available (for free) at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6934223
I've tried making a six-stand tray in two halves, and though it does work, it's not ideal. The gluing surfaces are just too small.
I've added some reinforcing strips of masking tape on top and bottom, and that certainly helps a lot, but I wouldn't rely on it not bending in the middle at the worst possible time.
I'm not likely to have a lot of use for a tray that wide in any case, and I can always use two 3-stand trays if need be — which would probably be a better option for several reasons.