4.5cm PaK (t) auf R-35 (f)

 I whipped this up mostly out of digital bits and pieces I had left over from other Blender projects.

It's a German hodge-podge of a Czech 45mm gun on a French R-35 chassis. The Germans made and used quite a few of these, right up until the war's end. From memory, there were about 135 of them.

The model is designed at 1:100 scale, as is my usual practice, for 15mm gaming. I didn't have any reference for the interior, so it's a bit barren in there — however, once I get a couple of crewmen in there I think it will look okay.


Fighting compartment
I exported the Blender model to two separate STLs, one for the hull and running gear, and another for the fighting compartment.

I find this gives me the easiest print to clean up, and it makes for a relatively easy print to support as I don't have to worry about any tricky supports forming inside the crew compartment.

3d Printer Upgrade — X-axis Belt Tensioner

Some time ago, when I was having issues with layer shifting and was flailing about for a fix, I bought a pair of belt tensioners for my Ender 3. I can't remember exactly where they came from (they came via Amazon), but they were pretty cheap — about ten or fifteen bucks each.

There are designs available on Thingiverse that can be 3d printed, but I prefer things like this to be made of aluminium and steel rather than plastic.

This is the one for the X-axis, and I've only just got around to actually installing it — I resolved my layer shifting issue, so there was no urgent need to change anything else, and I'm generally reluctant to fix things that aren't broken. It was not a big job, but it was pretty fiddly, and they came without any sort of instructions or drawings, so there was a certain amount of trial and error involved in installation.

I've done a small test print, and all seems well, so I suppose now I should go ahead and install the one for the Y-axis. And, looking at the photo, maybe I should give the printer a dust and wipe down from time to time too.

These things aren't strictly necessary for the Ender 3, but the belt rollers that come with the base machine aren't the best and have fairly obviously been designed for cheapness rather than efficiency or ease of use. These ones should, in theory, be less likely to rack the belt to one side or the other, as well as making it easier to maintain a decent tension thanks to the thumbscrew adjustment.

Pz35(t) Artillerie Schlepper (15mm)

The Germans in WWII were very good at modifying obsolete equipment to wring the very last drop of service from them.

The Pz35(t) was a Czech design they nicked when they invaded in March of 1939, though it was already obsolescent by then. It was used as a light reconnaissance tank for a while, and a number of them (in the mid 40s I think, I'm not sure exactly how many) were converted into artillery tractors like this one.

It's not the sort of model that's likely to appear much on the wargames table; they would have been with the heavy artillery quite a long way behind the lines, unless something had gone very wrong. Still, you never know.

This is a 1:100 model by the prolific Mr. Bergman. I've refined the rivet and canvas detail, and added a bit of detail to the tracks. There were multiple issues with the original mesh in the form of non-manifold edges galore, enough to completely choke 3d Builder's and NetFabb's automated repair systems, but fortunately Cura just blithely ignored them and sliced it anyway.


These two photos were taken at the same time, with identical lighting and zoom, and both from a tripod and using the camera's timer to eliminate camera-shake. Both were focused on the same point on the model. The only thing that changed between them was the lens aperture.

On the left, the aperture was f22, on the right, f5.6.

Each of them has their benefits.

The smaller aperture (f22) increases the image's depth of field, so every part of the model is in focus. The background texture is also better defined. The exposure time is long, so a tripod is absolutely necessary.

the larger aperture (f5.6) reduces the depth of field, so the background is significantly out of focus — this has the benefit of separating the model from its background, and the fact that his left hand is also slightly out of focus gives the figure a bit more of a sense of depth. Exposure time was significantly shorter, but still long enough to make tripod use advisable.

The miniature is from Reaper; I think it's a swamp-troll or something.

DM Screen — slow progress

I've been doing a bit more work on my AD&D/OSRIC DM screen, and it's almost ready for prime time. However, I have a great huge gaping hole on sheet #4 that I am entirely without inspiration as what to fill it with.

There's some spare space on sheet #1 as well, but I'm less concerned with that. If there's an emergency need, I'll put something there, otherwise I probably won't bother.


I've about finished, I think. There are still a couple of lacunae, but I can fill them if I really find something useful, or else maybe just with some graphics.

The PDF can be seen here, assuming I've configured the Google Drive link correctly — it's under 2 MB.


As I've mentioned before, I really do not enjoy production-line painting, so I tend to paint models, and often figures too, one at a time.

However, a significant problem with that is that I'm terrible at maintaining consistency in my painting from session to session. These are three 1:100 (15mm) A10 Cruiser Mk.II, each painted at a different time, and each one completely different in appearance to either of the others.

The one on the left is from PSC, the other two are 3d printed.

Floating Cyclops Head Thing

 I had a bit of a hiccup with my computer recently, and since I had to get it fixed anyway, I thought I'd take the opportunity to upgrade its seven or eight year old graphics card. This thing is the result of the first bout of testing of the new card, which has certainly made a huge difference in sculpting performance in Blender — it started out as a cube subdivided and MultiResolutioned to about 6.5 million faces, and the card handled an object of that complexity without blinking.

I had no plan or purpose for this when I started modeling it, and that does show a bit. However, it's now a Thing, and I've 3d printed one and painted it. The spearman is an old Essex figure; his spear is marked in 5mm increments.

The STL can be downloaded (free) from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4481578

Cruiser Mk.II A10 (CS)

I recently printed this 1:100 Cruiser Mk.II A10 CS, and had my first go on it using the Vallejo Caunter set.

The issues with the print itself are several, but never mind that. The paints are excellent in terms of colour. My only issue with them is that because they're formulated for airbrushing, they take at least three coats to get solid coverage when applied by regular brush.

I prefer to apply Caunter by brush, because my masking skills aren't that great, and masking is a pain. It might be a different matter if I was working with 1/72 kits (or larger), where I could paint the camo scheme before adding all the lumps and bumps like exhausts and what-not.

I draw the lines of the scheme on to the Portland Stone base coat with a pencil and flexible ruler, and then just colour them in, and I find I can get acceptably straight lines that way.

The Wars of the Roses

Here's a group of 15mm Wars of the Roses men-at-arms I got more than 30 years ago as part of a sample pack from the Tin Soldier Company.

I don't really know anything about the WotR or who was who, so I just picked a couple of banners more or less at random. I don't have any immediate plans for a WotR army, but you never know.

New Blogger is Pretty Shitty

The "New Blogger" may very well be more responsive on mobile devices, as they claim, but it's pretty shitty to compose new posts on with my desktop computer.

They're saying that by late July there'll be no other option, so it looks like Blogger will become largely useless to me. It seems to be pretty much typical of similar platforms, removing flexibility and user agency in favour of a homogenized and restricted user experience, and it sucks.

I guess it's time to start looking for somewhere else to blather.

[EDIT] I've been looking into Wordpress to replace my bloggery needs when Blogger changes irrevocably to the Shit Version of Blogger in a couple of months, but I'm beginning to think I might be better off just biting the bullet and learning something about Drupal. I've been thinking for quite some time that I should convert mojobob.com to some sort of CMS, but I just haven't been arsed to do anything about it.

A13 Cruiser modifications

I've been making some modifications to one of TigerAce1945's Early War set, the A13 Cruiser Mk.IV. I only want it for the North African campaigns, so I've just done the version with sand shields.

The modifications consist mainly of bumping up some detail (rivets, mainly) and adding some fillers so that it will print better on my Ender 3, but I've also added some detail to the tracks.

I split the hull in half, added sockets for alignment pins, and printed it in two pieces.

The two turrets have different styles of mantlet, but are otherwise pretty much the same.

The split in the hull could probably do with a bit of filler, but overall everything printed okay. Not perfectly by any means, but okay.

Centurion AVRE – fascine (1:150)

I printed a pipe fascine for my 1:150 scale Centurion AVRE (digital model by Bergman).

The fascine is attached by magnets, so it can be added or removed at whim.

It's heavy enough that I had to glue a slug of lead under the hull rear to keep it from nosing over under its weight.

Henschel HS 129 (1:144)

Here's a Henschel HS 129 tankbuster that I 3d-printed at 1/144 scale from a file by (I think) Capt_Ahab on Thingiverse. I had to draw in the panel lines, and I used some old Zvezda decals from I don't know what kit.

All in all, I'm pretty happy with it. It's not as clean as an injection-moulded kit, but on the other hand, it was free.

Comment Spam

I'm not very good at keeping up with comments on this blog — the theme I'm currently using doesn't show them in the timeline view, but only if the post is opened in its own page. However, from time to time I do remember that comments might exist, and I read them.

Sorry if you've said something profound and interesting that I haven't replied to; it's not that I'm ignoring you, it's rather that I probably haven't realised that your comment exists.

Lately, I've noticed a sharp uptick in the number of comments that are just more or less thinly disguised spam, so I've been going through and marking all the offenders. It's a pain, but perhaps if I remember that I have to do that, it might encourage me to remember to read (and reply to) the proper comments more regularly as well.

Figure Holders for Painting

I've tried all sorts of methods of holding figures for painting, from the simplest (bottle caps and blutak) to the fancy (3d-printed handle and adjustable gripping socket), and they all work well enough. However, at each end of the scale they have their issues: the bottle caps are small, don't offer much gripping surface, and are easily knocked over, while the fancy 3d-printed handle is quite bulky, and takes a very, very long time to print, which is fine if you just want one or two, but I'd want at least a dozen.

I've finally settled on this system: short lengths of 25mm beech dowel (bits of a broomstick, in fact) with a nail driven into an end, and a steel washer epoxied around the nail head. I can whip these up very quickly.

The individual stands are reasonably stable, and if need be, more weight can be added by gluing lead or steel slugs to the bottom. The 16mm washers on top are broad enough to support a decent blob of blutak, for attaching figures with non-ferrous bases, but more often I mount my figures on steel washers, so I just put a 10x1mm magnet on the holder and attach the figure to that.

When I'm painting a group of figures, the individual stands tend to just cluster about on my painting table, but the wooden tray for them is useful to keep everything organised if need be.

Peasant Hovel Upgrade

Hovel, along with some very angry peasants.
I remodeled the thatch on my little peasant hovel in Blender using a new alpha brush, and got a far superior (and faster) result than the original. Then I split the STL in half fore and aft, and printed it so that the layer lines followed the fall of the thatch. The overall end result is much, much better than the original.

Regrettably, my desktop computer shat itself without warning, so until I get it fixed ($$$) I won't be able to update the online files. Hopefully that won't be too far away, because I'm currently having to use a couple of very inferior machines to access the internet at all, and working in Blender or the like is completely out of the question.

Iron Age Round House

I've been experimenting with modeling thatch in Blender with an alpha brush, and put together this 15mm Iron Age round-house, as used by the ancient Celts — it's a bit early for my period, but they were still being used occasionally in the early medieval era.

The thatch is a bit too pronounced for my taste, but I don't think it looks too terrible. More practice is needed, obviously.

I've refined the thatch a bit, and added some bark detail to the posts. I'll put it on to print overnight and see how well it does with my 0.4mm nozzle.

Alas, my computer shat itself without warning before I could slice the new version, so I haven't been able to print one. The machine is off at Computer Hospital right now, so hopefully I'll have it back soon.

15mm Peasant Dwelling

I've started to get back into 15mm medieval wargaming, and I've been looking about for some rural medieval buildings that aren't castles, with very limited success. So I've decided to try making some.

This is a very small peasant hut, called a "grübenhaus" in German, but built in very similar fashion all over Europe, and indeed, the world. It was basically a wattle-and-daub thatched tent, and to give the occupants some head-room, it was built over a dugout pit, usually about two or three feet deep — hence the name.

Although this one is very small, and would probably be the hovel of a villein or serf, the same principle was used for considerably larger houses, especially where the soil was dry enough to dig into without oozing damp.

Here's the first test print done, and given a squirt of primer to take off the shine.

I shall have to give the thatch a bit more texture I think, even though I'm not a big fan of the sort of thatch modelling that looks like bundles of sticks rather than straw.

Okay, here's the second test print with a bit of thatch texture added. It's also been printed at a lower resolution than the first, to speed things up a bit.

As I suspected, my 0.4mm nozzle hasn't been able to fully render the texture in the model, but it's perceptibly more textured than the first try, and I think it will probably be good enough for my purpose.

It would be nice to be able to have nice shaggy thatch on my wargames terrain, but quite a bit can be achieved with paint, and in the end they're only wargaming models after all, not diorama pieces.

NOTE: the STL is now available at https://www.wargaming3d.com/product/medieval-peasant-dwelling/

This is a larger variant on the same theme, about twice the size of the little hovel in every dimension.

They would have been very dark and stuffy inside, as the only light would come from the open door and the smoke holes at the top of each gable. The peak of the roof would have been high enough to allow for a mezzanine floor for sleeping.

This sort of thing would have been a very common rural family home throughout Europe during the Dark Ages and early Medieval period, up until vertical framed buildings became the norm.

"Hail Caesar" Bases

After I'd started printing the movement trays for my Hail Cæsar formations, I started the arduous task of cutting up some 30x30mm MDF bases for individual figures. It's a job that is, to be frank, a pain in the arse.

Then it occurred to me that I could be using my replicator robot to make the bases for me. Duh!

So I whipped up some bases in Blender in the sizes I wanted — 30x30, 30x15, and 15x15 mm. As long as the filament and printer holds out, I now have an endless supply of them. I might see if I can get hold of some olive green filament though, to save on painting.

The bases, as you can see, have a 1.5mm lip and are 3mm thick in total, so they match my old MDF bases. The two knights in the centre of the tray are on one of those old bases. After I've glued the miniature(s) into the base, I fill it out with a generic acrylic filler — I think the stuff I'm using at the moment is called Permafil or something, but all the brands are pretty much the same.

I've made a change in my basing ground cover too. Up until now, I've been using static grass, and it's been okay. However, now I've changed to using three shades of Woodland Scenics fine turf foam flocks: Burnt Grass as the base, and very light sprinkles of Dark Forest, and Autumn Yellow to add a bit of texture. The foam soaks up the glue, and is a lot sturdier than the nylon static grass, and I think it looks better too. I could add a few little clumps of the coarse turf foam as well, for some additional texture, but I'm not sure I can be bothered.

The knights and the two single cavalrymen on the ends have been based with the static grass, while the two groups of two cavalry to either side of the knights are based with foam flock.

Movement Trays

From time to time I like to play with toy soldiers (15mm medieval warriors, from the sadly defunct Tabletop Games in the case of the ones in the photo) and to maintain as much flexibility as possible, with regard to rules systems, I mount them all on 30x30mm square MDF bases (40x40mm for 20mm figures, 20x20mm for 6mm).

However, then pushing them around the tabletop can get a bit tiresome, and it becomes easier if they can be moved en masse.

To which end, I've been tinkering in Blender to make these little movement trays. The sizes and proportions of things can be controlled very precisely in Blender, but for something like these, which need to be tight enough that the individual bases don't rattle around, but loose enough that they're easy to get in and out without sticking, a certain amount of trial and error is necessary to determine the exact degree of slack.

These first ones are all slightly too roomy, so I'll shrink them down by a few millimetres where necessary and print another lot. Once I've determined the optimum spacing, I can just production-line the things in any size or configuration.

Next Day...

I've settled on the exact sizes I want, and I've started a production line to print as many as I'm likely to need. Hail Caesar is fairly accommodating about basing, and you really only need to be able to distinguish between large (at rear), regular, and small units, and there are a couple of other things such as pikes and war-bands needing to be in deeper formations. All pretty straightforward.

I suppose I shall have to paint the trays a grassy green or something, but to be honest I quite like the pale blue.

Owlbearskin Rug

 Just what every high-class establishment needs lying by the fire — an owlbearskin rug.

Printed from the FDG May 2020 newsletter freebie STL. The 28mm figures are from Reaper.

Is it a bird? Is it a bear? It's an Owlbear!

Red-Headed Step-Dragon

I got this old miniature in amongst a whole bunch of old miniatures for a birthday a wee while ago, and have finally got around to painting it.

I don't know which manufacturer it comes from. Engraved under the base is "H.H.G. 1994", so I can date it at least.

Note: I am informed that it's from Heartbreaker Hobbies & Games, from their Magic: the Gathering line of blister packs.

CMP 3 ton Radio/Command Truck

I'm scampering about between modeling projects like a cocaine-addled grasshopper. This time I've headed back over to WWII again.

This is one of Bergman's 1:100 CMP 3 ton models, a radio/command truck, and I've painted it to be suitable for the latter stages of the Italian campaign, or for north-west Europe, post D-Day.

For NW Europe, it should also have the Allied stars applied, and maybe I'll return to it at some stage and add those.

The model is printed on my Ender 3 at 0.08mm in eSun PLA (a charming baby blue colour, for what that's worth). The coloured filament seems to me to be very much more brittle than either the grey or black that I've used before, and its inter-layer adhesion is not as good either.

Centurion AVRE (1:150)

I've got myself something for my 1:150 scale 1983 BAOR, for pushing and pulling and blowing things up: a Centurion AVRE.

It's the 1:100 scale Bergman model, rescaled to 66% and printed on my Ender 3.

My friend Steve is awaiting the arrival of a Creality DLP resin printer, and I'm all agog to see how it performs. I suspect I shall have to end up getting myself something similar, even though resin printers are a lot more expensive to run. The quality of print they're capable of is just much, much better than my trusty FDM machine will ever be able to produce.

M3 Grants (again)

I got a troop of three Grants 3d printed and painted and ready to go, so hoorah. They're intended for a Battlegroup: Torch British desert army from 1942-ish.

The palm trees are a pair of some luridly-coloured plastic ones I got from China a few years ago. I gave them a quick spritz of paint and put them on a base, and here they are. They came in a range of sizes; these are two of the medium-sized ones — the biggest ones would need to be cut down a bit in the trunk to be sized for 15mm stuff.

Grant (1:100)

I've designed a 1:100 scale M3 Grant tank for 3d printing, to give my desert-war Brits a decent gun before their Shermans start arriving.

This is the first test-print off my Ender 3, and by and large it's turned out OK I think.

Below is a comparison between Battlefront's old resin and metal kit (left) and my 3d print (right). As you can see, the Battlefront kit is substantially taller than my model, but I have double-checked my measurements and I'm confident that I'm right and they were wrong.

More 1:150 BAOR

Some more vehicles for my BG:NORTHAG 1:150 Brits are complete.

Above are FV432 APCs, and to the right, a FV104 Samaritan battlefield ambulance.

All are 3d printed in PLA on my Ender 3.

Command & Control in 1:150 Scale

This is a FV105 Sultan, a British command vehicle based on the CVRT series, modelled in 1:100 scale by loxfil and printed by me in 1:150 scale for my BG:NORTHAG BAOR force.
STLs are available from https://www.wargaming3d.com/product/family-cvr-t-set-two-fv104-samaritan-fv105-sultan/

I don't have any suitable 10mm infantry command figures for it as yet, and I'll probably wait until we're plague-free and things are more or less back to normal before I try ordering any from overseas.

I've magnetised the base and vehicle, so that the vehicle can be used separately if need be. The base itself is cut down from an old credit card, and flocked with my home-made sawdust and foam flocks.

Spotlight Experiment

I thought I'd try a little experiment with photographing miniatures, using a small focusable LED torch hand-held to get a spotlight effect.

I used quite a small aperture (f22) to get a decent depth of field, which meant a very long exposure. Being hand-held, the light wavered about quite a bit, but that was probably a good thing as it softened the edges of the shadows cast behind the mini a bit.

I'm not unhappy with the result. It's crude, but as a proof-of-concept I think it shows promise. A second torch, further away, could be used to add a bit of fill light too, I guess.

I note that this ettin has got a bit dusty. He could do with a wash.
The mini in its little stage

The little LED torch I used

Geschutzwagen H-39

I've painted up my 1:100 3d printed Hotchkiss Geschutzwagen H-39, and added a couple of crewmen from PSC plastic 15mm late-war German infantry packs.

The STLs are available at https://www.wargaming3d.com/product/hotchkiss-geschutzwagen-h-39/

[EDIT] I've now added the 75mm SPAT version of this vehicle as well. No crew as yet.

4.5cm PaK (t) auf R-35 (f)

 I whipped this up mostly out of digital bits and pieces I had left over from other Blender projects. It's a German hodge-podge of a...