There's a chap on Thingiverse who goes by m_bergman who has designed a huge number of wargaming models, from WW1 right through to modern times. The largest number are in 1:200 scale, but he's been steadily increasing the number of 1:100 scale vehicles too.
I like the idea of 1:200 as a wargaming scale. The models are small enough to allow a very compact playing area, but large enough to be easily identifiable. However, up until very recently, the range of models available was very limited compared with the more traditional 1:100 (15mm) or 1:300 (6mm) scales.
I printed the 1:200 scale Bishop 25 pounder SPG — it's the middle model in the photograph. On the right is the Heroics & Ros 1:300 version, and I don't have a 1:100 scale Bishop, so I've used a PSC Valentine instead on the left, the Valentine being the chassis that the Bishop was built on.
I don't know if I'll do much more 1:200 scale stuff; I already have a substantial investment in 1:100 and 1:300, and nobody else I know games in that scale, which means I'd have to provide all the forces if I want to get a game with them. However, if I do choose to do so, being able to print vehicles for a few cents each makes the prospect much more attainable than it would have been just a short time ago.
Tuesday, 31 July 2018
Monday, 30 July 2018
Brush Stand
I made this brush stand in Blender. It will hold six small brushes (up to 6mm diameter) and five large (up to 9mm), which is enough to cater to my most-used brushes.
I have hundreds of brushes, most of which never get used. The rest of them are in various jars, scattered around my workbench.
It's a two-piece print. The main body of the stand is hollow and sits on a base with a spindle, allowing the rack to rotate freely. In total, the assembly is about 140-150mm high.
The .STL files are online, available for free download, at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3024464
I have hundreds of brushes, most of which never get used. The rest of them are in various jars, scattered around my workbench.
It's a two-piece print. The main body of the stand is hollow and sits on a base with a spindle, allowing the rack to rotate freely. In total, the assembly is about 140-150mm high.
The .STL files are online, available for free download, at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3024464
Thursday, 19 July 2018
Runestones
Skulls galore |
They stand about 70mm tall, and one has a bunch of skulls stacked around its base for that cannibal-headhunter vibe.
They're on Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3010064
No skulls |
Here they are, fresh off the printer, along with a Reaper 28mm bartender for scale. They were both printed in PLA at 0.12mm, and took about 2½ hours each.
And here they are with a coat of paint. The miniature is from Reaper, the figure I use to represent my oldest D&D character from back in 1981, Smirnoff the Huge and Ugly.
Tuesday, 17 July 2018
Fiat 3000
I put together a 15mm (1:100 scale) 3d model of the Italian Fiat 3000 of 1920-21, their version of the ubiquitous Renault FT.
It's available on Shapeways at http://shpws.me/QvY3 (15mm/1:100) or at http://shpws.me/Qwfm (28mm/1:56)
I've made it available in their cheaper white nylon material as well as the high definition resins, but to be honest I'm not completely sure that it will print successfully in that stuff.
Here's one I printed on my own FDM printer. It's been cleaned up a bit and primed, but I see it needs more attention yet, now that there's a coat of paint on it. It would be better printed in resin on a SLA or DLP printer, but I don't have access to one of those, and am unlikely to any time soon.
FDM prints like this take a fair bit of cleaning up. Not just the printing supports, but the printer nozzle leaves a little spike of plastic off every single one of the rivets (or similar detail) on the top surfaces, and they each need to be individually trimmed back. There are little wisps of filament stringing as well. In ABS, they could be dealt with by a quick brush-over with a brush damped in acetone, but the solvent for PLA is considerably nastier (and harder to get hold of).
The machine-gun turret from the Mod.21 can also be mounted on this chassis.
The 1:100 scale model is available at http://shpws.me/QwlV
The 1:56 scale model is available at http://shpws.me/QwlW
It's available on Shapeways at http://shpws.me/QvY3 (15mm/1:100) or at http://shpws.me/Qwfm (28mm/1:56)
I've made it available in their cheaper white nylon material as well as the high definition resins, but to be honest I'm not completely sure that it will print successfully in that stuff.
Coupla days....
The figure is a 15mm WW1 British officer from Peter Pig, included for scale. |
Here's one I printed on my own FDM printer. It's been cleaned up a bit and primed, but I see it needs more attention yet, now that there's a coat of paint on it. It would be better printed in resin on a SLA or DLP printer, but I don't have access to one of those, and am unlikely to any time soon.
FDM prints like this take a fair bit of cleaning up. Not just the printing supports, but the printer nozzle leaves a little spike of plastic off every single one of the rivets (or similar detail) on the top surfaces, and they each need to be individually trimmed back. There are little wisps of filament stringing as well. In ABS, they could be dealt with by a quick brush-over with a brush damped in acetone, but the solvent for PLA is considerably nastier (and harder to get hold of).
Next day...
I've also made 1:100 and 1:56 models of the Fiat 3000 Mod.30, which mounted a long-barreled 37mm gun.The machine-gun turret from the Mod.21 can also be mounted on this chassis.
The 1:100 scale model is available at http://shpws.me/QwlV
The 1:56 scale model is available at http://shpws.me/QwlW
Sunday, 15 July 2018
DragonLock Skeletons
Left to right: 0.04, 0.08, 0.16 mm |
They've been painted very quickly, with just a black primer and white zenithal shading, followed by coloured ink glazes and an Agrax Earthshade wash. I picked out some of the bone highlights to finish. I wasn't keeping track of time, but I guess each one took about ten or twelve minutes to complete, not counting drying times.
Unsurprisingly, the finest layer heights suited the glaze and wash paint method the best, but even the coarsest will do fine as one of a large group of mooks — at tabletop distances, the difference in detail is insignificant, to my eyes at least. Though having said that, my eyesight is pretty shit.
Note: the wiggly points of the bardiches are not intentional, but the result of inadequate cooling of the filament. |
MicroVickers
This is a model I printed a little while ago when I was learning my way around what to expect from my Ender-3, now all painted up and ready for the wargames table. It's a model I originally designed to be SLA-printed by Shapeways, modified to print better on my own FDM machine.
It's is a British Vickers Medium Mk.II, the standard workhorse tank of the British army from the mid 1920s through to the mid 1930s.
The model has been printed in PLA at 0.08mm, and I modified the model to remove the gun and leave a dimple to indicate where I should bore a hole for a brass pin. Printing wires in this size is seldom very successful I've found, and using a piece of brass is much cleaner and easier in the long run. The paints are all Vallejo acrylics.
The model quality is surprisingly good; I wasn't really expecting anything much more than a vaguely Vickers-shaped blob, but the detail the printer has rendered is quite acceptable in a wargaming piece.
It's is a British Vickers Medium Mk.II, the standard workhorse tank of the British army from the mid 1920s through to the mid 1930s.
The model has been printed in PLA at 0.08mm, and I modified the model to remove the gun and leave a dimple to indicate where I should bore a hole for a brass pin. Printing wires in this size is seldom very successful I've found, and using a piece of brass is much cleaner and easier in the long run. The paints are all Vallejo acrylics.
The model quality is surprisingly good; I wasn't really expecting anything much more than a vaguely Vickers-shaped blob, but the detail the printer has rendered is quite acceptable in a wargaming piece.
Saturday, 14 July 2018
Flail Snail
The Flail Snail is one of the goofier monsters to be created for D&D. I think it came from the Fiend Folio, though I'm not 100% sure and I'm too lazy to look it up right now.
Here's a 3d-printed model of it, along with Scaley the Filthy Bartender (from Reaper) for scale.
The model was made by Miguel Zavala, and printed by me at 0.08mm layer height in PLA. I've tried to represent the iridescent shell by spraying random blobs of transparent inks over a silver base coat, and then applying liberal coats of gloss varnish; I think it turned out OK. The colour scheme is taken, more or less, from the D&D 5e illustration.
Here's a 3d-printed model of it, along with Scaley the Filthy Bartender (from Reaper) for scale.
The model was made by Miguel Zavala, and printed by me at 0.08mm layer height in PLA. I've tried to represent the iridescent shell by spraying random blobs of transparent inks over a silver base coat, and then applying liberal coats of gloss varnish; I think it turned out OK. The colour scheme is taken, more or less, from the D&D 5e illustration.
Friday, 13 July 2018
Layer Height Test
From left to right: 0.16mm, 0.08mm, 0.04mm |
They've all been printed through Cura on my Ender-3, using the SiePie Small Minis profile, altered in each case only to print at 0.16mm, 0.08mm, and 0.04mm layer heights. The miniatures are printed in PLA, and apart from removing the brim, they've had no post-processing of any kind.
At first glance there's really not too much visible difference, especially at tabletop distance. However, the close-ups below show up the improvement in quality with smaller layer heights — though at the cost of greatly increased printing times. If you're wanting a whole army of unimportant mooks, then exquisite detail probably isn't going to be that important, while a character figure might justify spending half a day to print.
0.16mm, 1 hour 11 minutes to print |
0.08mm, 2 hours 25 minutes |
0.04mm, 4 hours 30 minutes. |
Sunday, 8 July 2018
Dolls' House Furniture
When I got my printer, in a fit of enthusiasm, I got quite a bit of DragonLock stuff. More than I really need for my usual gaming purposes, it turns out, as I'm not really interested in using a dungeon tile construction system.
What I'm much more likely to use though are tabletop mapping props like these furniture pieces from their Village Furnishings (?) set. There's a bunch more in that set, more beds, tables, chairs, kegs, benches and so forth, designed around setting up inn and tavern scenes it seems to me. They're all very chunky, which is beneficial for gaming pieces as they're very sturdy and easy to paint, and generally speaking they'll print without the need for supports.
As well as fantasy roleplaying, they're handy for small-scale skirmish games like the "Three Musketeers" swashbuckling game that I've forgotten the name of, where figures are very likely to be leaping over tables and swinging on chandeliers and so forth.
These are all printed at 0.2mm layer height, which is fine for my purposes — I don't really need incredibly fine detail for this sort of thing.
I painted the bed on the right a bit filthy, maybe the sort of bed one might encounter in a cheap and disreputable inn, the sort of place one might meet a Mysterious Hooded Stranger. As one does.
What I'm much more likely to use though are tabletop mapping props like these furniture pieces from their Village Furnishings (?) set. There's a bunch more in that set, more beds, tables, chairs, kegs, benches and so forth, designed around setting up inn and tavern scenes it seems to me. They're all very chunky, which is beneficial for gaming pieces as they're very sturdy and easy to paint, and generally speaking they'll print without the need for supports.
As well as fantasy roleplaying, they're handy for small-scale skirmish games like the "Three Musketeers" swashbuckling game that I've forgotten the name of, where figures are very likely to be leaping over tables and swinging on chandeliers and so forth.
These are all printed at 0.2mm layer height, which is fine for my purposes — I don't really need incredibly fine detail for this sort of thing.
Next Day
Here are some more pieces from the same DragonLock range: a couple of single beds, a bookshelf, and a table.I painted the bed on the right a bit filthy, maybe the sort of bed one might encounter in a cheap and disreputable inn, the sort of place one might meet a Mysterious Hooded Stranger. As one does.
Thursday, 5 July 2018
15mm terrain: Stone Wall Sections
15mm Peter Pig WW1 British officer shown for scale |
These sort of things are one of the reasons I got a 3d printer. They're tabletop terrain pieces for roleplaying games and wargames. These ones came from Terrain4Print on Thingiverse, and I've scaled them down to 60% for use with my 15mm war-dollies.
These four I did as a test to see how they'd scale; the original .STL files had them at about 20mm tall. They printed just fine at 0.2mm, about an hour and a half for the four pieces, and I'm also using Blender to remix some additional corners, bends and what-not.
If I wanted hundreds of them, I'd probably print one set at as high a resolution as I could manage, and mould them in silicon rubber for resin casting. However, that's not terribly likely, and I can just set up a bunch of them to print at once overnight if I foresee a need for some more. Having the printer means that I have an effectively limitless supply, as long as I don't mind the time it takes to actually make them.
Tuesday, 3 July 2018
RPG Tabletop Terrain — More Doors
I made some more doorways for use with 28mm miniatures. They're available for download from Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/MojoBob/designs
These are the raw , unpainted prints at 0.2mm layer height in grey PLA. I've included a couple of 28mm figures for scale.
These are the raw , unpainted prints at 0.2mm layer height in grey PLA. I've included a couple of 28mm figures for scale.
Arched doorway front (or back) |
Arched doorway back (or front) |
Grilled cell door outside |
Grilled cell door inside |
RPG Tabletop Terrain — Tent
Figure is a 28mm fighter from Reaper, provided for scale. |
This is one situation where the printing layer lines aren't a problem when it comes to dry-brushing and washing. They make the structure look more like coarse, heavy canvas, which is ideal. This time.
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